Sample Pack

[Eddie Prudhoe]

As for the dying procedure I've learnt in my experience not to have cushions on the base as the fabric on the base are very prone to water marks. Not what the customer wants to see when they come to put their sofa back. I've got a roll of polythene sheeting which I use to place cushions on to dry. You can buy rolls of the stuff from screw fix etc. Just remember to keep rotating cushions whilst drying.

 

[Ken Wainwright]

Hi Eddie and a belated

Some good advice given and I agree with everything you have said. Or I would have done a few years ago.

As I don't know how long ago you attended your training with Derek Bolton or whether or not you attended upholstery cleaning training as well as for carpets, I would like to update you and others about using acidic rinses with upholstery.

There are now dyes around being used on some cellulosic fibres & fabrics that react to both base and sour chemicals by changing colour. OK, it is nearly always possible to correct this with a chemical treatment but it is always best to avoid this situation in the first place.

Our current advice is to clean upholstery, both pre-conditioners and rinses, as close to pH neutral as possible.

The highly regarded Fusion 8, which can be used as both a pre-spray and in-tank rinse agent, is pH 7 and also Woolsafe Approved.

Safe and happy cleaning
Ken

 

[Jacob Gourd]

I ordered the tester set from World of Clean and was very impressed with them. Are you using a truck mount Or portable? Personally for me even if the chemicals are neutral ir detergent free I always use an acidic rinse on any type of cleaning. Customers will have tried to use off the shelf products or home remedy in the past before calling yourself. They may have had the upholstery cleaned before and the problems your having may be nothing to do with your work its from the previous cleaner who has left residue behind. My advice always use an acid rinse, diluted correctly.

I’m using a portable.

Well I’m confused now, the reason I put crystal rinse in the tank was to try and negate the effects of the hard water in my area which I suspected was leaving a chalky sticky slight to touch.

I guess I need to test and be sure it is the water causing this.

 

[Nick Robertson-Vousden]

Hi Jacob

Looks like you have very hard water in your area, details below,

Regards

Nick

HARD WATER
The area supplied by Affinity Water has 'hard' water. The hardness occurs naturally and is characterised by the presence of high levels of calcium and magnesium, which are good for healthy teeth and bones.
CALCIUM	127 mg/l
Calcium is the principal constituent of hardness.
TOTAL HARDNESS	317.5 mg/l
Total hardness is usually expressed in terms of calcium carbonate and is measured in milligrammes per litre (mg/l) which is the same as parts per million (ppm). The recognised classification scheme we are using is: 0-75 soft, 76-150 moderately hard, 151-300 hard, 300+ very hard. Your water is very hard.
Degrees English (or Clarke)	22.225
This hardness measurement is used on some British appliances.
Degrees German	17.78
This is used on some German appliances.
Degrees French	31.75
This is used on some French appliances.
MILLIMOLS	3.175 mmol/l
Millimols per litre. Some appliances refer to water hardness in millimols per litre (mmol/l).
FLUORIDE	0.218125 mg/l
Fluoride naturally occurs in the water in many areas. Affinity Water does not add any fluoride to your water. Fluoride is measured in milligrammes per litre (mg/l).

 

[Jacob Gourd]

I’ve got a dirty office tile clean next week. I’ve got a Orbot spray Borg and the superzorb bonnets. Usually I put environ hp in the machine which sprays in front as you move in a straight line.

So I want to use the sample pack. I was thinking of tackling this with a good vacuum, followed by a light mist of mpower. Plenty of dwell time while I set Orbot up and fill up its tank with the fusion clean. Then bonnet mop With that.

Is that the best approach with the sample pack? Is the mpower mist and dwell worth the effort? Is there a better product I can try instead of mpower. Maybe nitro?

 

[Jacob Gourd]

Hi Jacob

Looks like you have very hard water in your area, details below,

Regards

Nick

HARD WATER
The area supplied by Affinity Water has 'hard' water. The hardness occurs naturally and is characterised by the presence of high levels of calcium and magnesium, which are good for healthy teeth and bones.
CALCIUM	127 mg/l
Calcium is the principal constituent of hardness.
TOTAL HARDNESS	317.5 mg/l
Total hardness is usually expressed in terms of calcium carbonate and is measured in milligrammes per litre (mg/l) which is the same as parts per million (ppm). The recognised classification scheme we are using is: 0-75 soft, 76-150 moderately hard, 151-300 hard, 300+ very hard. Your water is very hard.
Degrees English (or Clarke)	22.225
This hardness measurement is used on some British appliances.
Degrees German	17.78
This is used on some German appliances.
Degrees French	31.75
This is used on some French appliances.
MILLIMOLS	3.175 mmol/l
Millimols per litre. Some appliances refer to water hardness in millimols per litre (mmol/l).
FLUORIDE	0.218125 mg/l
Fluoride naturally occurs in the water in many areas. Affinity Water does not add any fluoride to your water. Fluoride is measured in milligrammes per litre (mg/l).

Thanks nick, yes everything scales up quickly here. Have a bath or shower and let it dry you can feel the deposits on the shower screen / tub. Plus I have very good bones and teeth!!

With the water hardness in mind, is a small amount of a acid rinse a good idea despite the colour risk in upholstery highlighted by ken?

Is that how a acid rinse works? Does the more you put in the more it’ll lower the ph level of the water? More acid rinse = softer water?

 

[Ken Wainwright]

Jacob

I'm not saying not to use an acidic rinse if required. You need to be aware of the risks and test accordingly.

Yes, pH neutral is safer for these problematic dyes so you need to have a well structured fibre ID, inspection and testing regime and execute it on every job.

Safe and happy cleaning
Ken

PS We train our students how to correct these changes brought about by these reactive dyes.

 

[John Bolton]

Jacob,

Best practice dictates that you pre-test with all the chemicals you intend to use in the clean. So this should indicate whether there is a potential indicator dye problem. Since the pre-testing should be the first thing done by the time that you are ready to apply any liquids any potential problem with colour change will have had time to develop.

 

[Eddie Prudhoe]

Hi Eddie and a belated

Some good advice given and I agree with everything you have said. Or I would have done a few years ago.

As I don't know how long ago you attended your training with Derek Bolton or whether or not you attended upholstery cleaning training as well as for carpets, I would like to update you and others about using acidic rinses with upholstery.

There are now dyes around being used on some cellulosic fibres & fabrics that react to both base and sour chemicals by changing colour. OK, it is nearly always possible to correct this with a chemical treatment but it is always best to avoid this situation in the first place.

Our current advice is to clean upholstery, both pre-conditioners and rinses, as close to pH neutral as possible.

The highly regarded Fusion 8, which can be used as both a pre-spray and in-tank rinse agent, is pH 7 and also Woolsafe Approved.

Safe and happy cleaning
Ken

 

[Eddie Prudhoe]

Hi Eddie and a belated

Some good advice given and I agree with everything you have said. Or I would have done a few years ago.

As I don't know how long ago you attended your training with Derek Bolton or whether or not you attended upholstery cleaning training as well as for carpets, I would like to update you and others about using acidic rinses with upholstery.

There are now dyes around being used on some cellulosic fibres & fabrics that react to both base and sour chemicals by changing colour. OK, it is nearly always possible to correct this with a chemical treatment but it is always best to avoid this situation in the first place.

Our current advice is to clean upholstery, both pre-conditioners and rinses, as close to pH neutral as possible.

The highly regarded Fusion 8, which can be used as both a pre-spray and in-tank rinse agent, is pH 7 and also Woolsafe Approved.

Safe and happy cleaning
Ken

Hi ken thanks for you welcome and your reply. I attended both my carpet & upholstery course with Derek over 5 years ago I am looking to come see you guys for a refresher course in the near future for the reasons you just explained, & also to see what new chemicals are out in the market. Plus I've seen a few videos kn the internet and heard some great feedback. When are your closest dates for training on both carpets & upholstery & what is the cost. I have just invested a lot of money on a brand new vehicle & truck mount setup. So would need to plan ahed due to travelling & overnight accommodation.

 

[Ken Wainwright]

Great to hear Eddie, that you are investing in yourself too. You are the most important part of your business. I used to attend at least one training course a year when I was on the tools. I still do too

You'll find the training details here:

Solution Upholstery & Carpet Cleaning Training Courses | World of Clean

Upholstery and Carpet Cleaning Training Courses regarded as the best in the UK. Hands on practical and theory, unique courses guaranteed to make you money with the best in house training facilities.

www.worldofclean.co.uk

Solution Upholstery & Carpet Cleaning Training Courses

The UK's leading training courses for upholstery & carpet cleaning, superb facilities with on-hands training. NCCA & Insurance approved!

www.carpet-cleaning-training.co.uk

https://www.facebook.com/Ken-232982956713256/

If you attend the 2 day carpet course, there is discount on the others if attended the same week so it's best to speak to the Solution office rather than book online. Don't forget that there is a FREE workshop on the Friday of training week.

Safe and happy cleaning
Ken